Tuesday, 11 October 2005

Getting to Muzzafrabad

From Battal we headed south along the Karakorum highway through the villages we had passed a few days before. About 20 mins after we started Badsha pulls over.

Another flat - same tyre.

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Expertly he jacks up the Hilux and starts to change the tyre. The spare we fixed before is also flat.

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Leaving us in a bit of a predicament Badsha flags down a passing car - says a few words - puts in the tyre and the car drives off. Apparently all part of the local highway code. Hopeful about 30 mins the tyre will be back fixed. Though as its 9.30 in the morning where is it going to get fixed.

Richard meanwhile phones the desk to let them know what else has gone wrong. As we have time … while the tyre is being fixed we set up for a live into the 6.00am show.

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Setting up we set up our own show and got an audience.

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Unfortunately for them but not for us as the tyre came back before the live and we headed off rather than delay our trip any more.

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We have to stop in Mansera to fix the tyre properly - get a couple of new inner tubes. On the way in we pass a lot of military activity on the road and people watching. Helicopters are coming. Hopping out with the camera I follow the commotion to what turns out to be the local stadium, full of choppers with aid being loaded on.

We speak to the General in charge who explains the situation and will let us get on a flight as it delivers aid to the stranded.

Soon after about three or four choppers fly in and land almost rotor to rotor. Each one has on it at least 20 wounded to be ferried to the local hospital. Injuries range from broken bones and fractures to serious neck injuries and mainly children. These choppers restock with aid, depart and more land with more of the same. Ambulances racing to and from the hospital the scene is non stop.

Eventually we get on a flight and head off.

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The scene from the air really show how difficult the rescue and aid effort is. House’s are spread out over a large area - some are still standing. We fly around dropping aid from the door to people below.

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Soon we fly into Balakot - the closest town to the epicentre. On the road in to town hundreds of people making their way presumably in search of help. The town is flattened. Very few of the original buildings are standing and on one hill there is nothing but rubble.

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We touch down in an area by the river. The load-master jumps out before we have touched down. I follow him - hmmm not as close as I though but I rush out of the rotor wash and turn round to see the chopper still hovering. Damn the camera isn’t working. This has happened before and has not been good. Silently swearing very loudly the loadmaster comes running up and tells us to get back on. The chopper has to leave. Arrgh.

Back on board sat amidst sacks of flower I search my bags for a small screwdriver, tweak a latch and prey. Thankfully the camera flickers back to life and I sigh with great relief. It obviously didn’t like my heli jump.

We circle twice more before we can land again. Once down injured are made ready to board. We talk to a doctor who is one of the silent hero’s keeping people alive and out of shock so they can get on a chopper to safety. He has limited supplies and resources but is still totally dedicated running to a chopper about to leave with a newly arrived child in his arms who needs critical attention.

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It starts to rain with the injured on board and we all shelter inside or underneath. The weather is closing in and the pilot tells us that if the clouds cover the mountain tops we can’t fly. As if this disaster wasn’t bad enough.

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A little girl on board starts to cry for her parents. A man who has just come out of shock is worried about his drip which is running out. He tried to take out the needle but is stopped. Even with a thermal rescue blanket and thick over blanket he is still feeling cold. One of his sleeves is pulled up and he can’t pull it down. Chiade trys to help but he won’t let her. She tells Richard he makes sure the man is comfortable.

Eventually we take off and head back to Mansera. The hospital building these patients are taken too is not even ready. No fittings at all and patients all over the place - in the wards and corridors. The girl from the helicopter is brought in - luckily for her with her gran and sister. Two boys, one with a crushed foot, the other with a severe leg fracture aren’t so lucky. The doctors examine them quickly and when ask around for relatives they get no answer. Not understanding but getting the gist I tell them they came in with no-one as we were all on the same chopper.

The hospitals here, and in India, generally work on the principle that family have to bring you food to eat. No family….

We leave and it’s starting to rain…. there is a field hospital on more hospital grounds that is sea deep in mud. This is where most of the patients from the hospital were moved for fear of collapse. Now the rain poses even more problems so they are being moved back again.

Having edited in a hotel restaurant we again face the dilemma of how to get today’s piece back to London. We can’t find anyone to to drive it back - even if we could there is no space to feed it. My boxes still aren’t working. The only option is to feed in the morning from Muzzafrabad where we know we can do it. Thankfully we have had a little warm food and meat when the restaurant opened to break the fast at sundown.

To late to go forward and with no hotel space in Mansera we head to Abbatabad for the night. Another love when we get there. Setting up is now taking about 10 mins - which is good. Its late and tired bed beckons. First a can of cold baked beans for dinner. The first few mouthfuls were fine but by the bottom it was hard going.

Sleep was good but interrupted again as I had to get up to change the batteries on the charger.