We left Islamabad late, having got the necessary permisions (Ashish being Indian he didn’t want to take the risk being so close to the border - on the wrong side), food and cold weather clothing for the driver and fixer and drove back up to Balakot early afternoon in wonderful late autumn sunshine. This was much later in the day than I hoped, as we would not arrive until after dark and then have to deal with pitching tents…
The driver had not endeared himself to me with in the first five minutes - the tents had to go on the roof rack that we had asked be fitted to the car - knowing we had lots of luggage. The bags went up and needed to be set properly and tied down. Did he look like he wanted to do that? No he just stood there cleaning some road dust off the bonnet! So I climbed up and he started whinging to the Badsha (the fixer) - I didn’t know what he was saying but it was pretty self evident. Not what you need really. And yes he was a moody git throughout as it turned out!
The journey up to Balakot seemed much different, though only two weeks before we had plied the same road. I couldn’t work out why I didn’t recognise anything - oh yes I couldn’t see out of the previous car as it had posters all over the windows! Its amazing how things change when you can actually see!
We arrived at Balakot at about 8.30pm and drove to the camp that Kitty had recommended to us where the Spanish Red Cross were set up. We found a local Captain who led us to two small instant pop up tents that we could use.
Not enough for the four of us I tried one of the ones that Ashish had brought out from London for me.
Having sorted out the sleeping arrangements we cooked dinner - Driver (Rostum), Badsha (Fixer), Me
We have to thank Kitty for our direction onthis trip. I was thinking of going up via Buttal and trying to come down into the quake zone from the North. I was not totally happy with this idea. We did not want to do Balakot or Muzzafrabad again but find comunities who had been stranded. Since the quake happened she has been working with NGO’s (UNICEF and Save the Children, Red Cross… ) filming their activities and had a much better idea of what was happeneing AND understands what we need - which very few people do.
I gave her a call on her Sat phone and she happened to be outside Balakot, on top of a mountain where the road had just been opened to a valley head, having tea with a very nice Pakistani Army Major. That was it - decision made - Balakot bound.
Kitty is one of our freelance producer / journo’s who used to be in kabul but is now travelling and picking up work here and there.
