Up early with the dawn we cooked breakfast and slowly packed up whilst waiting for the sun to come over the hills to warm us up. It was very quiet - it seemed as if everyone was used to tent sleeping and could sleep with the lights on.
The toilet facility was in what appeared to be a huge cat litter tray, in a copse just outside the campsite next to the river. Lots of little piles of finely crushed stones in little mounds all over the place. Just be carefull where you step!
Everything done we followed Kitty’s instructions and off we went to find our story. The first stop was to the main army camp in Balakot where we met up with a very nice Colonel - who had had enough of the locals being greedy - wanting more and more when they had their quota. He told us of a story of one man who was camped not far away who kept on coming to get a tent with some excuse or other. Having had enough of this he went to have a look - to find the man had a tent for himself, one inside, another to house his belongings and the last wrapped around his cow!
We explained that we wanted to go to Jabrai to see the communities where the raod had only just been opened. He said that was fine, to talk to Major Tariq there and we could stay there for the duration. Back into the Landcruiser we headed off up the mountain after a jeep carrying more supplies.
Did we climb - a true mountain road going up and up and up. We got there at about lunch time but being fast time we were good and sneaked a Mars bar. Major Taroq was very nice and showed us where we could set up camp. Knowing that if we left it to later - when it was dark and cold it would be a nightmare to set up, we started clearing the ground and pitching the tents.
Here we have Ashish’s tent that he put up himself - the first time ever too! With mine in the background.
Whilst scouting the area Ashish saw down in the valley a funeral going on. Much to my annoyance we stopped building camp and went down to film. An old man had recently died from injuries sustained in the eathequake - though he had been released from hospital. His women folk were gathered around the body wailing. Very atmospheirc.
This was not a quick proceedure so we filmed some other shots, afternoon prayer time and waited for the body to be brought down to the cemetary.
The men waiting with us were very kind, though we couldn’t comunicate too well, with faces full of charisma.
The cemetary was perched on the valley side, had a stunning view both up and across to the other side if the valley where we could see more damaged houses. When the body was carried down from the mans house a short ceremony was held over looking the valley with mist filling it the distance and blue skis above - very evocative of the times.
When it came to bury the body, which was wrapped in white cloth, it was lowered into the grave and then stone slabs laid over the top. They did not cover the body in soil but left a large gap, just filling in the holes in the stone. This perplexed me - though later I found out - as there is vey little space in the cemetary, it was so that when his wife died she could be buried with him - and other members of the family too if needed.
The old man was buried next to his 6 year old grandson who had died in the eartquake.
Eventually we made our way back up the valley side to the camp, in time to finish setting the tents up. The big green one is the Majors just next to ours. The two on the right are his toilet and shower which we were banned from using - no doubt after I had used it and made a complete mess.
As dusk was falling we were invited by the Major to have Aftari with him. Aftari is the breaking of fast held since sunrise - no water, no food with some exceptions for the young, old, infirm or when at war. Ashish was particularily taken with this, being of Indian origin, breaking fast with the Pakistani Army high up in the foothills of Kashmir. It was very welcoming and indicative of the hospitality we received wherever we went.
After this we went back to our camp and cooked dinner.
One improvement from the last trip being a decent light - only 18w - but loads of light and fully waterproof for the fiercest of storms.
