Quake - Part 2

After our chopper ride we headed up to Balakot - the town worst devastated last year. It wasn’t long before we saw the real signs of progress - or lack of it - the temporary housing a year on - tents, makeshift huts and prefabricated buildings all dotted the roadside.

Our first stop was to an ICRC medical centre out of the town and a twenty minute drive off the main road up a hill. This is where doctors and nurses turn up every week at the same time to look at injuries and illness’s, young and old.

On the way back down the hills we passed lots of children as school had finished for the day.

These girls though it was great fun to chase the pick-up. They must have followed us for at least half a mile down twisting turning lanes. I am sure that they don’t know it but once they are a bit older this freedom will soon be taken away from them. So sad.

More fat bottomed sheep - I must admit, I think they do look just wonderful.

Into Balakot we passed the ever visible signs of devastation that hasn’t been touched since last year.

Life though seemed to have returned to some sort of normality with kids on the roads having fun. Stalls along the main street back up and running, stocked with all sorts of goods.

The government has decided that Balakot will not be rebuilt at its current location but outside of the valley about 20 miles away. Not many people want to leave and the government isn’t doing a particularily good job about it either.

Not only is it a long way away but it has been moved off the main road. Whilst it may be very pretty moving from a town built up at a busy river crossing to no-where isn’t the most sensible of decisions.

But its the people who have really have been affected the worst. These two sisters both broke their legs in the earthquake, had them set badly and then broken and re-set again - incorrectly. They are now both wearing leg braces and can’t put any weight on them.

Though they are very hopefull that their legs will get better I think reality is very far from the truth.

We finished off having to do some lives outside a tented village. This isn’t actually supposed to be here any more. In fact may pople did move out but when the monsoons came there were many more landslides and floods that demolished their temporary homes once more and so drove them back to the camp for another winter.

Whilst waiting we saw many children taking their livestock for a walk - perhaps not a walk but for grazing and to the little stream nearby for water.

I am not sure if I have explaned it before but this is our typical live set up - to do ‘videophone lives’. The two grey panels are M4’s, basically large satellite telephones which we use to dial into Sky and get on air. Almost that simple anyway.

It means we can be very independant and extreemly flexible in how and where we can set up and broadcast from. As time has rolled on we have also got the setup time down and can now rig everything up and get on in about 10 mins from a standing start. Which if I say so myself - isn’t that bad.

Kashmir Quake Anniversay - Part 1

A year doesn’t last long these days. Already 365 days have passed since the quake in Kashmir last year. We are on our way back to do a series of packages from the region shoing how things have changed or not. As always one of our first tasks is to negotiate our excess baggage down. As we travel with about 120kg on average this is an onerous task but one we do - sometimes with glee at getting a discount and sometimes just because.

Once we get to Islamabad our first trip is with the army in a MI-17 helicopter being flown around a large part of the region to see schools, hospitals and the like.

This is the workhorse that has been flying around the region non stop basically 12 hours a day for the last year. Inside sat next to the Japanese ambassador Alex catches up on his reading. Which isn’t half as interesting as the guy on the right. Everytime we took off his was straight back into his Jeffery Archer novel.

Our first stop was near the border with India where we visited a girls school being built. The capacity almost tripled. One of women from an NGO concerned with the rebuilding had the audacity to say that the girls who died would be pleased as now those would have better facilities etc… undoubtedly true, but it was put in such a coldhearted manner.

Traveling around by chopper really does make you aware of what a huge task it is to rebuild and also how hardy and fit the people are who live here. Only once have I seen anyone breaking into a sweat walking up and down and up and down the hills.

One stop was to a MSF hospital near to the camp where we stayed with the Britsh forces in January. The hospital was build ‘porta-cabin’ style and had most of the facilities you could ask for. Building the infrasturcture to exceed pre-quake times does seem to be happening. the hospital was full with local queing outside for treatment. This is especially true for women who will only see female doctors - and now there are. We got so engrossed filming that we missed the convoy back to the chopper. Thankfully they did notice we weren’t there and sent a car back for us.
Back in the air again we are fairly free to walk around the cabin as we want. The pilots don’t seem to mind who takes pictures - but then again its not a regular flight.

Flying inbetween the hills you realise how remote the area is and how it has been scarred - dotted with shiny new corregated iron sheeting. We flew over a new lake that was about a mile long. Half a mountainside, and I do mean half, had come down and blocked a river. For some reason they - the experts - were concerend it may burst - I mean there must have been millions of tonnes of rock blocking its path.

Of course our trip would not be complete with out seeing some bureaucrats. Here we are in a meeting with the Prime Minister of AJ&K (Azad Jammu & Kashmir). After the next briefing we went to the Turkish Ambassador asked me if I enjoyed my sleep. Well if there is nothing to photograph why not. Being Ramadan and not having lunch one does need a power nap every now and again.

Back in the chopper the Major taking us around regularily held up signs saying where we were going. This one tells us the route back - Batagram then to the Alai valley. He held up one earlier in the day stating no tents above 7,000 feet. Hmmm.

Whats that between the two houses? Oh - must be below 7,000ft then.

Lastly before we head back to Islamabad for Iftar - breaking the fast - we fly over the Alai Valley. I haven’t met many people who have been this far - it is very remote and hard to get to but it is also very very conservative and you do need to be careful filming anyone as they get very angry. Absolutely stunning though.

Back into Islamabad we fly over Constitution Avenue with the Presidents Palace at the end where everything continues as normal. Not even thirty minutes flying time.

In Hospital

Why is it always the same ones who are seem to get the wrong end of the stick. Poor Ben ended up in hospital with gastroenteritis. He was sick all the night previous, vomiting and diarreah. He must have only got about an hours sleep.

Kathy whisked him to hospital on the Saturday morning and he was immediately admitted and put on a drip. He was also tested for dengue fever which is doing the rounds here at the moment. Negative thank God. The rest of the day he spent sleeping. Aaron, Tilak (our cook) took turns to stay with him whilst Kathy sorted out Jessica.

Of course I had to be away. On a Saturday the quickest way from Islamabad to Delhi - only about 400 miles - is 24 hour journey via Bangkok. It is very worrying when he is ill, as he is prone to seizures when his immune system is low - thankfully none occurred. I arrived back late on the Sunday night to find him asleep having finished his second and final bottle of drip. Kathy, relieved from duty at last, was able to go home and get a decent sleep.

Breakfast was toast and tea - which he demolished - apart from the crusts.

After the sumptuous breakfast, which they actually forgot to bring, the nurse came…

But only to take out his needle and remove the plaster - which was the bit that hurt. As it always does.

A little later Kathy came and we waited for the doctor to see Ben be discharged. Kathy may not like having her photo taken but it’s good to see Ben better and laughing again.

Happy Diwali

The lights glowing on Diwali inspire us to shine in our true spirit. May this glittering festival make you and your family shine all the way.

Wishing you a great Diwali,

Aaron, Ben & Jessica, Kathy & Phil.

What is it with Fathers?

It doesn’t seem to matter how old you get you still get told off!

“Dear Philip,

Just read your Blog on your brush with the law on using your mobile phone – I think you were very lucky. I’m sorry but I believe that you should not use your phone when driving – no, it isn’t the same as listening to the radio or talking with a passenger. If it had happened over here you would have not have got off. That said, it is reported that the number of UK drivers using their mobile phones on the move is increasing, but the catch rate is not. It amazes me how many one sees are mothers with children in their cars, lorry drivers and 4x4 drivers. “

Oh well - I guess the only thing to learn from this is…

Kids - when you’re 60, I’m still going to tell you off for not sitting up straight at the table, apart from not driving while on the phone that is!!

I must also apolgise for missing Daddy’s Birthday last week. Happy Birthday.

When In Rome

There is a fair amount of discussion about veils in the UK at the moment. Interesting as when we travel around the region most of the time women do wear wear headscarfs, veils or burkhas.

Here is a link to an article Alex has written about how she was percieved this week in the earthquake region - which isn’t that conservative. The Veil Controversy

Very much a when in Rome syndrome - but you can still not keep everyone happy.